LAS VEGAS – Treat some travelers to a plate of fresh pasta and chocolate dessert, and that’s all they need to leave a restaurant happy. For others, it’s a good wine list, an engaging waiter, or flattering lighting. For me, this is a great roast chicken. I love how her thin, cracked skin and tender, juicy interior play out, their savory aromas swirling first around the plate and then around the table like a spell conjured.
NoMad Las Vegas hardly needs to serve great roast chicken to feel magical. But the Nomad farm bird, stuffed with black truffles, foie gras and brioche, is not a grocery store roast chicken. NoMad’s roast chicken has superpowers. And so do many of the restaurant’s other dishes, a collection that ranges from comforts like tumbled fresh tagliatelle with king crab, lemon and cracked black pepper to extravagances that include lobster, more truffles and even more. foie gras.
In a year filled with new restaurants and hotel renovations, the completion of Park MGM and its glamorous boutique hotel, NoMad Las Vegas, ranks as the most notable additions to the Strip. The reception was slow. Park MGM’s new restaurants, cocktail bars, common areas and refreshed rooms have been flashing like fireflies since late last year, culminating with the debut of Eataly, On the Record nightclub and Lady’s two-year residence. Gaga before the calendar switches to 2019.
Park MGM replaced the old Monte Carlo resort in a $ 450 million renovation that makes the hotel barely recognizable to those who remember its grubby carpets and budget interior. The NoMad occupies the top four floors of the 32-story Park MGM, whose thousands of rooms are not as spacious or well-appointed as NoMad’s 293. Park MGM will appeal to budget-conscious travelers, while NoMad will attract the wealthier crowd. (A recent check revealed midweek rates for Park MGM starting at $ 99 and NoMad starting at $ 179.)
“NoMad as a brand is overkill to begin with,” says Andrew Zobler, founder and CEO of Sydell Group, owner of the NoMad brand and MGM partner to open NoMad Las Vegas. “It’s about indulging in fantasies here. We are in the world of yes and never say no.
Zobler’s partners in the NoMad brand include chef Daniel Humm and restaurateur Will Guidara, the duo behind acclaimed Manhattan restaurant Eleven Madison Park. Zobler says he’s wise enough to let Humm and Guidara run the bar and restaurant unhindered.
It’s inside NoMad’s restaurant that you’ll find this magical roast chicken and a fantastic design that could serve as a movie backdrop. More than 20,000 antique books line up on shelves that surround a three-story dining room decorated in beef blood red and midnight blue. A beautiful cocktail bar is hidden from view, ideal for those looking for a low-key hideaway.
The hotel bar serves a menu of simple and complex dishes that won’t break the bank. No, you can’t order the restaurant’s $ 94 roast chicken at the bar (it’s meant to be shared two), but the $ 14 carrot tartare is from another world, and the $ 17 burger is among the best you can find.
“We are fighting against people who think a meal at NoMad is more expensive than it is and more stuffy than it is,” Guidara explains. “Delicious food and courteous service are central to all of our restaurants. You can get in and out of both restaurants for less than $ 100 per person, and much less than that if you want to. This includes a starter, sides and a drink.
At first glance, the dining room may indeed seem straight and formal, but it is decidedly the opposite. Do you remember when you dressed to go out because dinner was also the show? Meals prepared at the table? Alaska in the flaming oven? An intelligent and engaging service? A great mixtape played at a volume you respect? This is the NoMad.
“Look, I’m 39 and I never want to eat in a restaurant where I have to whisper,” Guidara says. “I want to have fun and be able to talk to the people I am with. … We deliberately work on the design of warm, friendly and inviting restaurants.
Park MGM and NoMad Hotel, 3772 S. Las Vegas Blvd., Las Vegas, Nevada; parkmgm.com.